Let it be that milestone moment of Donatella Versace sitting front row for Vaccarello’s first collection, since officially being appointed Versus Versace creative director, to begin Paris Fashion Week F/W 2015. Unlike New York fashion week’s oversize jumpers shrugging loosely over models’ shoulders, Paris seemed to reside in the tailored world of blacks. Vaccarello’s recent travels to the American West brought a, somewhat, rock ‘n’ roll vibe, where subtle, and not-so-subtle, metal stars encroach on the dresses of the collection. However, Vaccarello’s signature cutouts became a focal point – slim industrialized half-belts resting on the waist and the harsh angular shoulders formed the dominatrix attitude that now proceeds to challenge the sensuality of Italian craftsmanship.
Disproportionate wafts of felt, poplin, ribbed knits and corduroy stitched together, as a naïve youth would have done in Kindergarten art class, came hand in hand with the bare breasted models of Parisian fashion label Jacquemus’ collection. Unlike the usual orange pink hues and geometric aptitude of designer Simon Porte, this Fall collection dwells in the far-from-systematic realms of fashion land, where his style of dilapidated chaos is swooned over. Nevertheless, this seemingly childish parcel of amusement had an added visionary texture. Berlin-based photographer Sebastian Bieniek’s “Doublefaced” series was central inspiration in Lyne Desnoyers, MAC makeup artist’s, graphic kohl facial art that endearingly complimented the abstract jigsaw puzzle atmosphere.