Fall is the grey area in the seasons of fashion – where one feels as though being drenched in black is erring on the depths of the winter chill, while wearing S/S floral seems to condescend the very existence of said Fall. Somewhat unapologetically, 2015 has quite literally taken the reigns of this so-called ‘grey area’ and transformed the sombre glum of this achromatic colour into a gateway where one can welcome, rather than be repelled by, the swallowing fog that is Fall. Much like the temperamental weather of the season, Andrea Jiapei Li, a Vfile designer for 2015 New York Fashion Week, combines fabrics “in a unconventional and unexpected way” to provide garments with a new identity and “own personality”. Interludes of gainsboro, a very pale stone grey, refresh the collection with a crisp parting from the usual deciduous tree colour palette of oranges and browns.
Although hints of burgundy and powder blue intrude on fashion label Tibi’s, generously grey, fall collection, designer Amy Smilovic was reminiscent of the Inuit culture, where wool and jersey outwear met with a warmth coziness of fur-covered flats and mohair.
On a more controversial note (as most things are in the presence of Kanye West), his collection with Adidas original is a direct development from the recent phenomena of sport luxe. By collaborating with Italian performance artist Beecroft, his runway show was striped back to the bare minimum. Fusing, a somewhat, Tom Raider-esque neutral stocking ‘armor’ with the stone palette of the oversized sweats allowed the individual physique, and personality, of each model to be seen.
All I can hope is that this shift to the bland and boring grey continues, because there is nothing like a new aspect on the season of Fall. Izo